How I Spent My Summer, 2012 Part II--Travelogue: Sheep Falls

The Hot Chick and my two youngest sons at the trailhead to Sheep Falls

On July 7th, we only had a few hours for an excursion so we decided to visit Sheep Falls, Idaho.  My youngest son, Garrett was just a baby when we visited here last.  This time we brought the camera.  The falls aren't very large, more of a cascade really.  But the canyon and gorge are impressive.  Kayakers can navigate the falls with little problem.  I imagine there is a certain degree of difficulty but I wouldn't know about that.

To get to the falls from Rexburg, head north on Highway 20.  Go past Ashton and up the Ashton Hill, which is really just the rim of an ancient caldera.  Once over the rim of the caldera, watch for milepost 369 as the northbound sign for Sheep Falls is currently missing.  After the milepost, take the first right.  The road will pass two small roadcuts before the turn.  Once on this road, head east for a few miles.  I'm sorry that I didn't take better note of the mileage.  There are a couple of turnoffs, but don't take them.  Only turn north on the road marked "Sheep Falls".  The road goes down about a hundred yards to a turnaround where you can park.  It's been noted in some literature I read not to take a car down this road, that it's little better than a jeep trail.  My Chrysler Town & Country navigated it just fine.  When we got to the parking area, one of the first things I saw was a Sego Lily.

Parking area

Sego Lily

The trail to the canyon bottom follows a gentle slope with a couple of switchbacks to make it a very easy hike.  I think the trail is only .7 miles from the parking area to the brink of the falls.  Along the trail we saw several varieties of wildflowers, some of which I can identify, some of which I cannot.

Wild Rose

Paintbrush, formerly called "Indian Paintbrush"

Unknown white wildflower

Wild Geranium

As we approached the bottom of the canyon, we began to see evidence of ancient river channels, and in fact most of the trail at the bottom of the canyon wound it's way through and around the ancient stream bed and long dry waterfalls.  The lava rock was scoured smooth in these areas and I learned by watching just how the falls had come to be.  The lava in this canyon follows a columnar jointing pattern, much like the Giant's Causeway in Ireland.  As the water eroded the softer rhyolite, it coursed over the jointed basalt and peeled off the leading edge of it one stone at a time, one layer at a time.  It was very interesting to me, but then again, I'm a geology groupie.

First vantage point of the falls from the trail

Upstream from the same vantage point

Wall of ancient river channel

Ancient river channel

On top of the ancient falls, now at the brink of the current falls.  Note the columnar jointing habit of the lava rock

Sheep Falls on the Henry's Fork of the Snake River

View downstream from the same vantage point as the photo above

Water scour over basalt in ancient streambed

We followed the river downstream for another two hundred yards or so to get to the end of the rapids through the gorge.  The last time we came down this canyon we only ventured to the falls.  This time we went further and were not disappointed.  Once again the trail followed the ancient riverbeds through the ancient gorge.  We headed back up the trail once we reached the end of the rapids and I found a place where we could rock climb down to the river.  The boys were all over that.  Chimene complained that I was only taking pictures of things and not people, so I took some pictures of her and the kids.  Once I did that, she took the camera away from me.

Ancient streambed showing columnar jointing habit

Rapids from the trail

Cliff face of columnar jointed basalt

The Hot Chick and the boys

She took the camera away from me after this shot

The boys and I walking back through the ancient gorge and riverbed

The boys standing at the brink of an ancient, extinct waterfall

Chimene took this of me at the falls on the way out of the canyon

This was not a difficult hike, more of a walk really, but the scenery was magnificent.  The trail was shaded almost all the way down until we got to the river, then the water insulated against the heat of the day.  The geology was very interesting to me and of course we all enjoyed the rock climbing.  We were warned of bears, and this is grizzly country, but we didn't see any and we didn't see any bear sign (that's the polite way to say bear poop).  We all enjoyed this hike and we will do it again.

How I Spent my Summer, 2012 Part I--Travelogue: July 4th Cave Falls

Cave Falls, Yellowstone National Park

I have lived more than thirty years of my life near the southwest corner of Yellowstone National Park, and this year is the first time I have ever visited Cave Falls.  Yellowstone is home to many great things, animals, geysers, mountains, lakes, rivers and over 300 waterfalls.  For the last several years, we have been on a pilgrimage to see as many of Yellowstone's waterfalls as we can.  We only had a few hours on July 4th so we decided to visit Cave Falls.  We were not disappointed.

The southwest corner of Yellowstone is sometimes referred to as "Cascade Corner", because some of the most spectacular waterfalls in the park are situated there.  This part of the park is visited less than other areas because almost all of it is backcountry and only accessable by hiking.  Most of the hikes are long but the trade off is that they are mostly level with little elevation gain.  Last summer I hiked with my son Haydn to Union Falls in the southwest corner and blogged about it here. 

To get to Cave Falls from where we live, we headed north on Highway 20 and turned east on Highway 47 which is now designated as "Mesa Falls, Scenic Byway".  Just before the road dips down into the canyon for Warm River, there is a turnoff to Cave Falls to the right.  From there it's about 18 miles to the falls.  The road to Cave Falls terminates at the falls.  We discovered that Cave Falls is really a waterfall flanked by cascades.  There is one set of cascades about a hundred yards downstream from Cave Falls and another one about thirty yards upstream.

The cascades before the falls

The brink of the cascades before the falls

Cave Falls only drops about 20 feet, but at 250 feet wide, it is the widest of all of Yellowstone's waterfalls.  It was quite impressive and there was still alot of water flowing over it.  Cave Falls was so named because there was a large rock overhang about a hundred yards long that flanked the river.  Part of the overhang actually went deeper into the hillside and part went under the waterfall.  Unfortunately, the overhang collapsed in 2008, so there is no cave at Cave Falls any longer.  Even without the cave, though it is an impressive sight.

  We walked down the short trail from the parking area to the falls and ran into some friends from home.  It was nice to see familiar faces there.  While we were there, I think there was a bug hatch going on because the water was boiling with trout jumping just below the falls.  It's always fun to witness that.

Friends from home

Cave Falls and the cascades above the falls

We discovered that there was another waterfall upstream from Cave Falls about a mile and a half called Bechler Falls.  Of course we hiked that.  We did discover that we should have brought bug repellent on the trip with us, however because whatever bugs were feeding the trout were feeding on us.  That being said, though the trail was very pleasant and shaded most of the way.  at the trailhead there were a series of wooden steps up a steeper portion of the trail.  After that, the going was mostly level with only an occaisional, gentle elevation gain. 

Mountain ash branch in sunlight at the trailhead

Wooden stairs at the trailhead

The trail flanked the river for all but the last sixty yards or so where it cut through the forest to navigate around a small promontory.  Here and there, cascades and rapids were visible along the trail.  The forest was mainly lodgpole pine with a few fir trees to keep them company.  Wildflowers were also on display.

Cascades along the trail

Aspen shadow on trail

Lodgepole forest

The trail passes by the confluence of the Warm River and the Bechler River, and continues following along the Bechler to the falls.  From Cave Falls to Bechler Falls, the river seems to be one series of cascades after another.  About two hundred yards away from the falls, I began hearing the rumbling of tumbling water.  I pointed it out to my sons.

Confluence of the Warm and Bechler Rivers

Very cool rock along the trail

Bechler Falls

Mossy rock at the base of the Bechler Falls

Haydn and I hiked upstream for another fifty yards or so while Chimene and the two younger boys started hiking back to the car.  Above the falls, the river looked like it was made of glass.  Beautiful and still.  It is here that the famous Bechler Meadows begin.  This is truly a beautiful part of Yellowstone National Park.

The Bechler River above the falls

Pretty yellow wildflower along the trail

More wildflowers

Still more wildflowers

Red wildflowers

This hike is short, about 3 miles roundtrip and very easy.  Very little elevation gain and where the trail does rise it's a gentle slope.  The scenery is beautiful and because of the shade and the proximity to the river, it tends to feel a little cooler than the outside temperature.  Make sure you bring bug repellent.  I would definitely hike this trail again.

How I Spent My Spring--Travelogue: Part V Mesa Falls

Me and the Hot Chick overlooking Lower Mesa Falls

On June 16th, the theatre department held a retirement party for Susan Whitfield up in West Yellowstone, Montana.  Susan has been the costume designer and a faculty member at Ricks College and Brigham Young University-Idaho for forty-one years.  She has been a mentor, a friend, a colleague and an inspiration to me.  We honored her with an exhibit in the Spori Gallery this semester.  I blogged about it and you can read about it Here.

Chimene and I decided to leave a little early and take the scenic route up to West Yellowstone, via the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway.  Mesa Falls is a two waterfall system on the Henry's Fork of the Snake River.  They are both very beautiful and well worth the visit.  The byway begins in the town of Ashton, Idaho and winds it's way down past Warm River and up the side of the Island Park Caldera.  Along the way there are a few stops that offer beautiful vistas over deep canyons and views of the distant Teton Range.

The Teton Range in the background

Bear Gulch scenic overlook

Along the way, there are several trails that we didn't have time to take, but made note of them for a future excursion.  The next major stop was Lower Mesa Falls.  Lower Mesa Falls drops 65 feet over several tiers through a narrow gorge.  Even from the rim of the canyon, you can hear the thunder of the falls.  Along the canyon wall, there is an area of talus that should be navigable if one wished to climb down.  I may some day to reach the base of the falls trail.

Lower Mesa Falls from the observation area

Talus slope

About a mile upstream from the lower falls is Upper Mesa Falls.  At this parking lot, there is a five dollar day use fee.  Cheap at twice the price.  Five dollars is well worth the price of admission here.  From the parking area there is a paved trail that descends to the brink of the falls and at some point becomes boardwalk.  There are several flights of stairs along this path.  Thick green vegetation is abundant on both sides of the trail and it almost has the feel of a rainforest.

Vegetation along the canyon trail

More vegetation

As you descend into the canyon, every now and then you can see glimpses of the falls.  Upper Mesa Falls drops 114 feet and is 200 feet wide.  This is an impressive falls and not an insignificant amount of water flows over it.  Upper Mesa Falls is also the only major falls on the Snake River that hasn't been co-opted for hydroelectric power or irrigation.  It is pristine and beautiful.

The boardwalk takes you to the brink of the falls, then continues downstream along the canyon wall with frequent overlooks to give entirely different views of the magnificent falls.  The spray from this falls has created a micro climate on the far wall of the canyon, which is very much like a rainforest.

Brink of the falls from the canyon trail

The brink of the falls from the first overlook

Mesa Falls from the second overlook

The Hot Chick at the second overlook

Eroded rock pillar in the canyon, downstream of the falls

Micro climate on the far side of the canyon

Layers of columnar jointed basalt on the canyon wall

There is an historic lodge near the parking lot that is over a hundred years old and has been restored.  It is now a museum and visitor's center.  One of the exhibits is a very unique petting zoo.  They have pelts of many of the animals from the area that were trapped and hunted during the fur trade and they encourage patrons to touch.  It's quite interesting.

The historic lodge

A very odd petting zoo

What could be better than a wall of skulls?

"Y'all come back now, y'hear?"

We ate at an ethnic Spanish restaurant in West Yellowstone.  I can't remember the name, but it is now my favorite restaurant there.  The food was very flavorful and many of the menu items were naturally gluten free.  Not only that, but the price was right.  Very reasonable, affordable in a town that is neither reasonable nor affordable in most cases.  After dinner, we caught a show at The Playmill Theatre, my Dad's old business.  We saw  "The Drowsy Chaperone."  It was a good show and very enjoyable. 

The Playmill Theatre

My Dad often said, "The secret to a happy life is to create beautiful memories."  This was one of those.